Why I Don't Repair Jewellery I Haven't Made

And why it's about much more than protecting my time

If you've ever asked me whether I can repair a piece of jewellery you didn't buy from me, you may have heard me say no.

It's not because I don't want to help, or because I don't think another jeweller's work is worth repairing. There's actually a very important reason behind my policy.

I don't know what your jewellery is made from.

Recent news about cadmium being found in jewellery sold online has been a stark reminder of exactly why that matters.

The worrying story behind some "silver" jewellery

A recent investigation by The Sunday Times found jewellery sold through online marketplaces including Amazon and TikTok Shop containing dangerously high levels of cadmium.

Cadmium is a toxic heavy metal and a known carcinogen. In the UK, jewellery is subject to a maximum cadmium concentration of 0.01%.

Testing by the Birmingham Assay Office found some shocking results. One ring advertised as 925 sterling silver contained 92.3% cadmium. Other pieces contained cadmium at levels thousands of times above the legal limit.

That's sobering when you consider these are pieces designed to sit against your skin, and in the case of earrings, actually pass through it.

So what does this have to do with repairs?

When I make a piece of jewellery, I know exactly what has gone into it.

I'm using recycled sterling silver wire and sheet purchased from a reputable bullion dealer. I know where my materials come from and what I'm working with. I make each piece myself, so I know how it's been constructed, what has been soldered where and how it's been finished.

If something I've made needs repairing, I know what I'm dealing with.

With jewellery made by someone else, I don't have that same knowledge.

I don't know exactly what metal has been used, whether it's actually sterling silver, another alloy, plated, filled or something else entirely. I don't know what previous repairs have been carried out or what materials may have been introduced.

And when repairing unknown jewellery, I'm potentially exposing myself to unknown chemicals during a process that often involves soldering and polishing.

Jewellery can look like silver without actually being silver

Some "silver jewellery" can be incredibly convincing. It can look like sterling silver, be stamped "925" and be sold as silver by a reputable-looking marketplace or website.

But a stamp or description isn't necessarily proof of what's actually in the metal.

The ring found to contain 92.3% cadmium was advertised as "925 silver".

So when I say I don't repair jewellery I haven't made, it's not an arbitrary rule to make my life easier.

It's about knowing what I'm working with and being confident that I'm putting something safe into my workshop, on my tools and potentially back onto someone's skin.

What I will repair

If I've made the jewellery myself, I'm very happy to take a look.

Because I know the materials and construction, I can assess what's happened and work out the best way to put it right.

If you're not sure whether something was made by me, just ask. I'm always happy to have a look and tell you whether I can help. If I can't, I'll always try to point you in the right direction.

A little reminder when buying jewellery

The recent cadmium story isn't a reason to panic about every piece of jewellery you own. But it is a useful reminder to think about where your jewellery comes from and who you're buying it from.

Look for clear information about materials, the maker or retailer and, where appropriate, proper hallmarking.

Be particularly cautious of claims that seem too good to be true, especially when something is described as sterling silver but sold for an unusually low price.

And remember that a "925" mark on its own doesn't tell you everything about a piece. As this investigation demonstrated, even jewellery sold as 925 silver can turn out to contain something very different.